Fatma Ayran, Turkey's Youngest Sedefkar

We talked to Fatma Ayran, the youngest Sedefkar of Turkey, who sometimes reveals her own dreams, sometimes revives history with traditional motifs, and sometimes revealed special works to which she has attributed special meanings, about the subtleties and difficulties of her art, of which she is a veteran with love, and many other things in her workshop in Sultanahmet…

Can we know you?

I was born in Mersin in 1991, but we are originally from Kayseri. We have been in Küçükayasofya since we came to Istanbul. I was 9 years old when I came here and there were always workshops of artists from various branches. I started working with an illumination artist with great desire and enthusiasm. During the festivals, I came across sedefkar master at the stand next to us, and I enjoyed watching him. When he saw that I was enthusiastic, he started to let me make small cuts. Then, I started work as sedefkâr next to that master. However, since this job was difficult, he started to make me do office work, thinking that I wouldn't be able to keep on. I started cutting mother-of-pearl (sedef) while he was gone. When I was caught for a couple of times, he decided to teach me. Mother-of-pearl trimming takes a lot of time in our job. Sometimes it takes about 2-3 months. I trimmed mother-of-pearl for 3 months, and it was done in water in order not to swallow the dust. Sandpaper is glued on a stone and it is sanded in the water until it is of equal thickness and the hands are wrinkled and numb. As I became skillful, my master started to ask me to perform the cutting process of the incoming works. He also carved the instruments. I gradually learned all its stages from my master, and my mirror, which I made as my masterpiece, is still in my workshop. After working for a restoration company for a short time, I opened my current workshop.

What exactly does Sedefkar do?

If someone can process the wood of his/her work, cut the mother-of-pearl and embed it exactly on that wood and polish it by himself/herself, he/she is sedefkâr. Nowadays, some cut the mother-of-pearl and paste it into a frame or wood, but they do not do it well.

Why aren't there more sedefkâr?

There is no course for sedefkârlık (Mother-of-Pearl Inlay). Its material is expensive and it is a physically and mentally tiring work. Since it is very difficult and tiring to cut and shape mother-of-pearl, to carve it into wood and fit the same shape, people do not turn to this art. In our job, you have to work for at least two days for even the smallest job. Sometimes, we have works that take months. It takes a lot of hard work and a longer time to get the result compared to other arts. So, people get bored after a while and leave. This is the reason why this art is left behind.

What are the subtleties of shaping mother-of-pearl?

Before starting the job, you need to correct the mother-of-pearl you will use very nicely. Since it comes in the form of a shell, the bottom part is thick and becomes thinner towards the top. You need to cut the area where you will use the shell with a jigsaw, sand it evenly and bring it to the level you will use. Again, you also need to bring the wood you will process to the same thickness so that some of its part will not remain at the top and some of its part will not remain below while carving. Material preparation is very important to us. Next, you should know them if you are going to make illumination, calligraphy or tulip figure. You need to cut the text written by the calligrapher without disturbing it. Or if the writing is broken, you have to fix it while cutting it. When the writing is broken, the image of the pattern and text you cut is not pleasant either. Therefore, it is important that you know the art of calligraphy even a little. Before starting the art sedefkârlık (Mother-of-Pearl Inlay), illumination and calligraphy training must be taken. After carving the work, after each part is finished, you need use french polish, which already takes 2 to 3 months. You also prepare the french polish by yourself according to the work you are going to do. Depending on the color of the work you will do, you need to lighten or darken the color of the polish. It needs 40 coats to be fully polished. It should be applied once a day and allowed to dry. The layer of each level is formed. Then, those layers should be cleaned with sandpaper. Because of these processes, as I just said, it takes months for us to produce a product. In small jobs, the process can be reduced, but in large jobs, the processing time can take months. Our job is a very delicate, fine and self-sacrificing job.

You have a lot of products in your workshop. Did you do it all yourself?

Yes, I made them all myself. I know immediately when one of my products is missing, no matter how small or big. I work on a job for at least 2 days. I adopt it in the process I'm dealing with. The product and its place are engraved in your memory. Since each of my products has a special place for me, I definitely feel the lack of them. The products here are not the products I had after I opened my workshop, but since I started sedefkârlık (Mother-of-Pearl Inlay). We also don't have a working shift. Our working time can be very long.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO USE THE MATERIAL PROPERLY

It takes a significant time to learn and experience the compatibility of the materials you use with each other, which wood takes more polish, which lasts longer. Mother of pearl is an expensive art, so it is important to use the material properly.

You have turned mother-of-pearl into jewelry …

The production of items such as a mirror painting and chest takes a long time and is expensive because the cost is very high. I thought there was a lack of jewelry with regard to mother-of-pearl. Mother-of-pearl is not processed in jewelry a lot in the Ottoman period and today. Because when you turn it into jewelry, you also need to know the jewelry part. I wrote the names of my customers' spouses and children or their own names next to the rings. I embroidered our traditional motifs on the necklace. People liked it even more. With such small jewelry, mother-of-pearl has started to attract more attention.

I Made a Design for BUGATTI Brand

5 years ago, a customer who came to my store asked me to make a necklace. Then, he took my card because he liked the necklace so much. Afterwards, one day I got an e-mail from him, he said he was the designer of Bugatti cars and asked me to work on a product for his private customers. We made 5 lotus flower works from 4 different mother-of-pearl varieties. Then, we worked on the frame for the rear view mirror. I cannot share photos of models and applications because they are tailor-made works.

Which stage has made you the happiest?

The stage of giving meaning to the pattern…When a customer comes, I want him to have a story of the product he demands from me. I am very happy and supported by integrating the material and design to be used with what he wants or the person to be gifted, to research it, to impose spiritual meanings and to leave a mark on people with his story.